Shoe and method of making the same



Nov. 1-1 .1924; 1,514,634

T. H. SEELY SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 24 :92: aSheets-Sheet 1 New. 11 1924, 1,514,634

T. H. SEELY SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 24, 1921 5Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov. 11 1924.

T. H. sEELY SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 24, 921

3 Sheets-Sheet. 3

Patented Nov. ll, i924.

Uhll'lhfi STATES hiildfidt THOMAS H. SEELY, or nannnn, nrassaonnsnrrs..e GHINER-Y CORPORATION, or rare-seen, new

JERSEY.

anon TO UNITED SHOE MA A CORPORATION OF NEW SHOE AND T/IETHGD 0FIVIAKING THE SAME.

Application filed October 24, 1921.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, THOMAS H. SEELY, acitizen of the United States, residing at Malden, in the county ofMiddlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvementsin Shoes and Methods of Making the Same, of which the followingdescription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, isaspecification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating likeparts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and is hereinexemplified as applied to the making of shoes comprising upper partshaving outturned flanges with soles secured to the flanges.

Objects of this invention are to provide a very inexpensiva neat andserviceable shoe made of cheap materials such as fiberboard or similarlow costt'abricated sheet material; to take advantage of the fact thatsuch mate- I rials are alike on both sides; to minimize the number ofshoe parts, and effectively and economically" to prepare the parts to beassembled and secured together.

In the attainmentof these and other objects the invention provides ashoe comprising an upper having an outturned flange and an outsolemolded over and down upon the outturned flange. Advantageously aninnersole may be provided which preferably has a margin coextensive withthe outturned flange of the upper, the margin of the outsole beingmolded over both the margin of the innersole and the out-turned flange.To provide strength and flexibility at the ball line it is desirablethat the heel and toe parts of the upper overlap at the ends of the ballline. In order that this advantageous construction may not result in athickening of the flange over which the outsole is molded, theillustrated innersole is notched out, where the upper flanges overlap,to receive the flange done of the upper parts so that the thickness ofthe flange is maintained unitormv The molding of the margin of theoutsole across the edge facesof the innersole and the flange of theupper and then down upon the flange of the upper provides a shoe edge ofvery neat appearance and secure attachment of the parts of the shoetogether, particularly when the various resulting thicknesses of theshoe flange are Serial No. 509,852.'

sewed together through and throughas herein shown. Before sewing it isdesirable to compressthe margin of the outsole against the flange of theupper, and in this operation the flange may be given a stitch impressionor other ornamentation.

Preferably the parts of the shoe upper are given substantially the shapewhich they are to assume in the finished shoe by shaping them over aform. In shaping materials of this sort, particularly the blank which isto form the toe portion of the upper, it is desirable to 'mold the blankto a properly shaped form by a wiper embracing the form. the wiper andform being relatively moved heightwise of the form. To avoid the dan gerof scratching or scraping the outer face of the blank by movement of thewiper, the advance corner of the wiping face of the wiper is shown asrounded. After the margin of the blank has been made to assume in thismanner a position perpendicular to the plane of the shoe bottom, themargin of the upper is turned outwardly over a member having, adjacentto the turning line, a square corner to form the margin into a flangehaving a definite proper angle to the sides at the toe. To give theoutturned flange a definite predetermined width a templet may beemployed which, as shown, is so shaped and held with relation to theflange that when followed by a trimming knife a flange of predeterminedwidth results.

Great economy in the number of dies re quired for agiven line of shoesmay be effected by taking advantage of the fact that the material is thesame on both sides since a plurality of sets of the parts of a shoe maybe cut by dies designed for one foot and part oi the blanks so mademolded the other side up for shoes for the other foot. In the design ofslice herein shown all of the parts are thus reversible.

In molding material such as leatherboard in the manner described, propertempering oi the material is important. The parts of the upper of theshoe before molding are preferably thoroughly tempered in the samemanner as leather would be, and before molding are allowed to becomenearly dry again, it having been found that the material works best inthis condition. If the outsole is tempered in this manner, however, itis found that variations in the size in soles cut by the same die occurwhich interfere with the proper "molding of the outsole over the flange.

sessesa definite grain extending lengthwise "tral' portionof the blankfrom the action of the tempering fluid while exposing the margin whichis to be molded to the action ofthe tempering fluid. I

Beforethe upper and innersole are as sembled upon the euts'ole it'ispreferable to subject 'theiouts'ole to a preliminary molding operationin which t-he margin is molded over a'fo-rm having theshape-andthickness of theshoe parts overwhicln'whenassembled on the 'sole,themargin is finally molded. Ifyasis desirable, the-margin is foldedcompletely over and downuponthe form, it may beturned up again wholly orcompletelyand the assembled upper and in nersole inserted, the partsbeingproperly supported on the inside of the" shoe and then the'marginsubjected to a second molding operation which will beeasier than thefirst *and will ensure a better and more complete disposition of theinturned-ma'rgin over the outturn'ed flange ofthe upper.

lfn-the drawings,

Fig. -1 is an exploded *view [showing the shoe parts prepared forassembling;

Fig. 1 is a view of the toe blank before molding;

Fig. 1" is a view of thequarterblank'before molding;

F g. 2 IS a perspective VIQW of theicompl'eted shoe;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary view in perspec- --'tive and section showingthe-construction f the shoeblank at the ball;

Figjl is-a side view, partly insection, of

the I toe *inolding apparatus;

Fig. 5*is asectional view of the apparatus shownin Fig. 1 after the-toehas 'been'mold- Fig. 6 is a perspective view "partlyinsection of theapparatus for outwardly'flanging the upper; V

'Fig. Tis a view similar .to1-Figfi6 showing the step 1 of trimming theoutturned" flange; 5 Fig. 8 illustrates theunann'er of dieing out Fig.-10 is a-perspeeti-ve "view, partly in This material pos- Fig. 1.

section, of an apparatus for molding the sole;

Figsj l1, 12' and 13 are sectional views showing the successive stagesin the operation of molding the margin of the-outsole;

Fig-14k isa perspective view showing the upper and innersoleassembledupon-a form;

Fig. 15 is a sectional View illustrating the molding of the margin ofthe outsole down upon the flanges of the assembled upper and innersole;

Fig. 16 illustrates the use of the stitching machine in assembling theupper and inner-sole Z'Fig. '17. illustrates the manner of stitchingthrough the edgeextension of the show-and ,Fi'gzjlS isa perspective viewof one of the outsole margin moldingmembers formed to ornament the shoeedge.

'In the practice of'this lnvention "a'blank 2, which is to constitutethe rearand side portions of the shoe upper, is idied'out and preparedinany usual manner of the shape shown inFig. 1 This blank, which may bereferred to as'the quarter blank-by way "of'identification, is providedwith an outturned flange 8 ina manner to b'e-h'ereinafter more fullyexplained. A blanks, to constitute the toe portion of the upper, is

similarlyprepared as shown inFigl. For F theseblankslprefer to usematerial-"such as fiberboard-which is the same on both sides. The blanksfor a rightshoe may then be madeby thesame dies asthose for a left shoe,the blanksfor oneshoe being unolded one side'out and those for the othershoe moldedthe otherside out. Similarly .1 innersole blank Send anout-sole blank S are died outand used one side up for -a right shoe andthe other side up for a left-"shoe. The shoe is made up of these'fourjpa'rts 2,4, '6 and 8, formed and ar ranged for assembling asillustrated in The toe blank i is'made to assume "the shape shown inFig. 1 by thejmeth'od illustrated in Figs. 14, 5, 6 and 7. *A form 10 isprepared havingthe shape, for instance, of "the toe portion of a rightshoe and the blank larranged the proper side Lip-fora right shoe ispressed against the form 10 by a follower l2 whichpreferably is of "ashape corresponding to a considerableareafofthe 'topportio'n' of theform 10. A'wiper lthavmg a 'shape corresponding'to. the peripheral-'contour or the'form 10 is providedijaiid'relative. movement effectedbetween the wiper and theblank 'heightwiseof the form .10 to cause theblank' to 1 conform to j the shape of (the form as show'n'inFig. 5.The'bla'n k 4 'is wrapped about the form' by the action of a rounded.advance edge'l'ti'o'fthe wiper 14: which prevents scraping orscratchingiof the material by the .edge of the wiper. "The blank,shapedas shown in Fig. 5is'next treated as illustrated in Fig. 6 by members 18and 20 which are clamped against the blank 4 by suitable means such asthreaded rods 21 and wing nuts 28. 18 and 20 have square corners 25resting against the margin of the blank where it is to be turned. Themargin 22 of the blank is then turned (preferably outwardly) to form aflange making a square angle with the body portion of the blank. Afterturning, the flange is clamped down against the members 18 and 20 by atemplet 24 which is shaped and located with reference to the outturnedmargin of the blank so as to expose beyond the inside edge of thetemplet a flange of predetermined and preferably uniform width. Thetemplet may be located by pins 26 engaging holes 27 in the templet andin the members 18, 20. A knife 28 is then passed along the edge of thetemplet 24 as a guide to trimotf the excess portion of the flange. Thequarter blank 2 is molded in a similar manner between inner and outermolds corresponding in shape to the rear portion of the right shoe, theflange being formed and trimmed substantially as described andillustrated in connection with the toe blank in Figs. 6 and 7. Thecompletely molded quarter and toe blanks are shown in Fig. 1 and are ofsuch length that when assembled they will overlap a short distance ateach side adjacent to the ends of the ball line, this line being wherethe greatest amount of flexure of the shoe occurs in wear. It is to beunderstood that identical blanks are molded the other side out indifferent sets of molds to form parts of the other shoe of the pair.

The innersole 6 is died out as shown in' Fig. l, notches 32 being cutout of the margin of the sole at each end of the ball line toaccommodate the overlapping portions of the upper parts, for a purposeto be hereinafter more fully explained. The innersole is preferablyformed of material of the same kind and thickness as that from which thequarter and toe blanks are formed and is assembled one side out in aright shoe and the other side out in a left shoe. Material such asfiberboard has apronounced grain extending lengthwise of the sheet andhas a greater resistance to fracture when bent transversely of the grainthan when bent on a line parallel to the grain. Accordingly it ispreferable to die out both the innersole and the outsole blanks withtheir longeraxes extending in the direction of the grain-:that is,lengthwise of the sheet. The arrangement of the soles, relatively to thesheet is illustrated in Fig. 8. The margin of the outsole is to be bentup over and down upon the flange of the upper parts 2 and 4, as shown inFig. 3. Hence it is desirable that the outsole have a size correspondingto that of the innersole plus a margin at least The members equal inwidth to the thickness of the upper umterial, the thickness of theinnersole ma terial and the width of the flange of the parts 2, 4.Outsole blanks 8 of the proper size are died out of a sheet of materialas shown in Fig. 8 with their longer axes eX- tending in the directionof the grain or lengthwise of the sheet, the material being preferably,though not necessarily, thicker than that used for tne other parts ofthe shoe. The outsole blank 8 is prepared for assembling with the upperparts 2, 4 and innersole 6 by a preliminary molding pro cess asillustrated in Figs. 10 to 18. The outsole blank 8 rests on a support 36to which it is clamped by a plate 88 having the peripheral shape of theinnersole of the shoeand a thickness at its edge face 39 equal to thatof the innersole and the flange of the upper. lhe support- 86 and theplate 38 may be clamped together against the blank 8 by any suitableform of press, for example, by a cross bar 40 engaging an upwardextension on the plate 38 and clamped down ably supported at 47 andhaving therein a hole of the shape of the plate 38 or of the innersoleand enough larger to admit the thickness of the outsole stock between itand the edge of the plate 38. The outsole blank 8 and the plate 46 areinitially positioned relatively, as shown in Fig. 11. Then, by relativemovement of the plate 48 and the sole clamping means the margin of theoutsole blank is made to assume an upstanding position as shown in Fig.12. The melding of the outsole may be stopped at this point, theassembled innersole and upper parts placed within the upturned margin ofthe sole and. the sole molded in over the flange of the upper parts tothe margin of the innersole, as will be later de scribed. I prefer,however, to carry the molding of the outsole farther as indicated inFig. before assembling the other parts with it. For further molding theoutsole there are provided over the plate 86 inwardly movable edgeturners 50, I 52, as best shown in Fig. 10. The t-urners 50 are shown astwoin number arranged one at each side of the sole, and the turners 52are shown as twelve in number. six of these being arranged about each.end of the sole. It is essential only, however, that the turners besufiicient in number to enable all portions of the sole margin extendingabove the plate 46 to be smoothly turned in over the plate. held fromvertical movement by headed studs and are moved inwardly of the sole byany suitable means such, for example, as screws 56 threaded through lugs58 on the support 47 and engaging the; outer ends of the turners so thatby actuation of p by threaded rods 42 and nuts 44. Sunrounding thesupport 36 is a plate 46 suit- The turners are slotted at 54, are

'the screws the turners may be moved inwardly to turn over theupstanding margin of the sole as indieai ed in Fig. 13. The

outsole is now removed from the molding apparatus and the plate 38 takenout from beneath the inturned margin of the outsole.

1 dotted lines'at 59 in Fig. 15.

A member 60 (Fig. le is provided having the peripheral contour of theinside of the shoe and havingan edge face 62 of sufficient height tosupport he upper parts 2,4 inside the shoe and adjacent to the flangeduring subsequent operations. The member 60, which may be made of wood,is in two parts hinged together at 64 to permit its removal from theshoe inthe manner of a hinged last. The molded upper parts 2, t and-aninnersole 6 are assembled on the lastmember 60, as indicated in Fig. 14,and the-flanges of the parts 2 and -l secured to the innersole by'a fewstaples 66 driven through the flange of the upper and the margin of theinnersole. This may con 'veniently be done as indicated in Fig. 16 bymeans of an upper stapling-machine such, for example, as that disclosedin United States Letters Patent No. 1,103,935 granted July 21, 1914 onapplication of M. F. Brogan. The upper and innersole, assembled on thelast member 60, are placed within the outsole blank Shielded asdescribed and the last member 60 and-assembled shoe parts, 2, l, 6 and8, replaced in the sole molding apparatus (Figs. 10 and 15). The marginof theoutsole which extends above the flange of the upper parts ismolded in over the flange, as shown in Fig. 15, by inward :movement ofthe turners 50, 52. The support 47 and turners 50, 52 are then movedrelatively perpendicularly to the sole to cause the inturned portion ofthe sole to be pressed against the flange. The work engaging faces ofthe turners may be formed with teeth or ribs 7 0 (Fig. 18) so as to formindentations in the inturned margin of the sole, the indentationsserving to produce an ornamental edge extension and to remove orobliterate any cracks or creases due to the molding operation and tocontract the edge of the inturned margin to cause it to correspond tothe lessened peripheral extension of the shoe at the line where the edgeis ,nowflocatedas compared with the periph- .:eral.eXtension of the soleedge in its orig- .inalflat condition. For some purposes the shoe may;now be regardedas complete, the inturned margin of the outsole servingpern'ianently, to unite the sole with the other assembled shoe parts. Iprefer, however, to avoid any tendency of the molded margin to return toits original condition by sewing chine as indicated, the seam 7 2 beingformed and locatedas clearly shown in Fig. 3. In Fig. 3 the edge isshown partly in-section ad acent to the notch- 32in the innersole.

,Sinee the flanges of the quarter portion and:

toe portion of the upper overlap for a short distance at the ends ofthe. ball line the thickness of .material over which the outsole is tobe molded would be greater at this point thanat the other parts of theshoe if the margin of the innersole were continuous. The notch 32,however, enables the flange 3 of thequarter portion 2, as shown in Fig.3, to be depressed so as to lie in the plane of the innersole. the samethickness the upper the total thickness of the flange at this point ismaintained the same as the thickness of the flange including theinnersole at other parts of the shoe. before'if desired, the lastmember60 may be removed, this being readily done by turning up the rearportion of the member on its hinge and then moving it lengthwise of theshoe.

The shoe may be provided with a lacing as indicated in Fig. 2 or withother means for retaining it uponthe foot and may be varnished orfinished in other ways to enhance its appearance and durability.

Before subjecting the material, such as leatherboard, to moldingoperations such as those described it is highly important to have thematerial in the proper temper. I have found after extended experimentsthat the material works well if tempered in the way that leather isusually tempered and then allowed to become nearly dr before molding.The molding may then'be done without danger of the material cracking andif the molding means is heated the shape is permanently retained. V

A meth'od of tempering blanks for molding which I have foundsatisfactory, particularly as applied to the outsole, is illus portionsof outsole blanks, are exposed while the remaining surfaces of theblanks are protected by the plates 80, 82. The clamp'with the blanks init is dipped in a vessel 96 con- Since the innersole is of After theshoe is sewed, on

tract in a manner which it is diflicult to.

predetermine or control, moreover the amount of expansion due totempering is different in a direction transversely of the grain than itis lengthwise of the grain. By protecting the portion of the blank whichdoes not require molding from the action of the tempering medium thisuncertainty as to the condition of the blank and its size is obviatedand thetempered margin of a sole blank cut to fit a shoe or given sizecan be molded in so as to cover the flange. and lie at its edge close tothe side of the shoe.

liaving thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. As an article of manufacture, a shoe having an upper part formed withan outturned flange, and a sole forming the tread face of the shoe andhaving its margin extending across the edge face of the flange andacross the top face of the flange.

2. As an article of manufacture, a shoe having an upper part formed withan outturned flange, a. sole forming the tread face of the shoe andhaving its margin extending around the edge oi the flange and over thetop face of the flange, and a seam securing the inturned part of thesole, the outturned flange of the upper and the tread portion of thesole together. 7

3. As an article of manufacture, a shoe having molded quarter and toeparts pro vided with outturned sole attaching flanges, an innersolecoextensive with theiflanges, and an outsole the margin of which extendsacross the edge faces. ofthe innersole and flange and over the top faceof the flange.

a. As. an article ofmanufacture, a shoe having molded quarter and toeparts provided with outturned sole attaching flanges, the flanges of thequarter and toe parts overlapping at the ends of the ball line andhaving an innersole coextensive with the flanges and provided withnotches to receive the overlapping portion of a flange and having anoutsole surrounding the sole attaching flange.

5. As an article of manufacture, a shoe having an upper part formed withan out turned flange, a sole forming the tread face of the shoe andhaving its margin extending across the edge face of the flange and overthe top face of the flange, and fastenings securing the margin of thesole, the outturned flange of the upper and the tread portion of thesole together.

6. As an article of manufacture, a shoe having molded quarter and toeparts provided with mitturned sole attaching flanges, an innersolecoextensive with and secured to the flanges, an outsole the margin ofwhich extends across the edge faces of the innersole and flange and overthe top face of the flange, and stitches holding the flanges, innersoleand outsole together.

7. As an article of manufacture, a shoe having molded quarter and toeparts provided with outturned sole attaching flanges, the flanges of thequarter and toe parts overlapping at the ends of the ball line andhaving an innersole coextensive with the flanges and provided withnotches in its margin to receive the overlapping portion of a flange soas to provide a sole attaching flange of uniform thickness and anoutsole molded over and down upon the flange. V

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes, which consists informing the shoe upper parts with outturned flanges, assembling theparts, preparing a sole blank having the shape of the periphery of theflanges of the assembled shoe parts and of greater size, and molding themargin of the sole over and down upon the flanges of the upper parts.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes, which ccnsists informing shoe. upper parts with outturned flanges, assembling the parts,preparing a sole blank havin the shape or the periphery of the flangesoi the assembled shoe parts and of greater size, molding the margin ofthe sole over and down upon the flanges of the upper parts, and stitchindenting the upper face of the molded margin.

10. That improvement in methods of maltingshoes, which consists informing shoe upper parts with outturned flanges, assembling the parts,preparing sole blank having the shape of the periphery of the flanges ofthe assembled shoe parts and of greater size, molding the margin of thesole over and down upon the flanges o1 the'upper parts, andsimultaneously forming upon the margin ridges extending transversely ofthe margin.

ll. That improvement in methods oi maleing shoes, which consists informing shoe upper parts with 'ou-tturned flanges, preparing aninnersole coextensive with the flanges. preparing an outsole blankhaving the shape of the innersole and of greater size, assem-- bling theupper parts and innersole upon the outsole, and molding the margin ofthe outsole over and down upon the flanges of the upper parts. i

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists informing a toe blank and a quarter blank with outturned flanges,preparing an innersole blank of the shape of the shoe bottom includingthe flange, the flange being cut away at the ends of the ball line,assembling said parts in overlapping relation at the cut-away portion ofthe innersole, preparing an outsole blank larger than the inner sole,and molding the margin of the outsole over and upon the flanges of thetoe and quarter blanks.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists informing a toe blank and a quarter blank with outturned flanges,preparing an innersole blank of the shape of the shoe bottom includingthe flanges, assembling said parts, securing the flanges to theinnersole, preparing an outsole blank having a size in excess of that ofthe innersole, molding the margin of the out-sole into upstandingrelation to the body portion, placing'the assembled upper and innersolewithin the upturned margin of the outsole, and moldingthe margin of theoutsole around the edge of the innersole and P over and upon the flangesof the toe and quarterblanks.

14-. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists informing shoe upper parts with outturned flanges, preparing an innersoleof substantially the size and shape of the shoe bottom, preparing ano-utsole blank having the shape ofthe innersole'and of greater size,preliminarily molding the margin ofthe outsole over a soleshapedpattern, assembling the upper parts and innerso-le together, securlngthe flanges innersole plus a margin equal to the width of theflange andthe combined thicknesses of the innersole and flange, molding the marginof the sole into upstanding relation to the body portion, placing theassembled parts within the upturned margin of the sole, and moldingthe-margin oi thesole over and upon the flange of the innersole, toe andvamp blanks; I

16. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe part blanks ot sheetmaterialinto the form which they are to assume the finished shoe whichconsists shaping the body portion of theblank even a foi r'r l byeffecting relative movement heightwise of the form between the form--and a tool having a rounded advance corner otthepe ripheral contour ofthe form-,- and then fold ing the margin of the blank-outwardly ever-- atool having a square corner;

1'7. That improvement in methods at shaping shoe upper blanks of sheetmaterial into the form which they are to assumed)- the body portion ofatoe blank to-atoe arm by advancing a tool having a rounded ed e thefinished shoe which consists in shaping heightwise of the form,substituting for saidtool a tool having a square edge,-

than: folding the margin of the blank outwardly over the square edge.

18. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe part blanks of sheetmaterial into the shape which they are to assume in the finished shoewhich consists inshaping the body portion of a blank int-c the shape ofa shoe part, clamping the-blnk i n the= shape it has been made to assumewith clamp having a square corner along the line where the margin of theblank is" be turned, and turning the blank outwardly over the squareedg'eof the clamp.

19. That im rovementin niethuds': c'fi shaping shoe par-t blanks ofsheet; mates-n1 into the shapewhi'cli they areas assumeia the finishedshoe which consistsshaping the body portion of a blank intowhe' snaps ofa shoe part, clamping thebla'nk in the shap it has been made toassumes-rial a; clamp having a=square corner alongtthe-line where themargin of the blankis' re turned, turning the blank outwardly over thesquare edge of the" clamp, and-warming the outtu'rned flange" aredetermined] width by applying 'as a guide rere min g knife a" te'mpletthe inner perip which oorrespondsto the desired outer periphery oftheblank.

In testimony whereof I have-signed my name to thisspeeificat-iim.

THoMas H. sE'ELY,

